Installing a filter adapter style oil mod kit

(or how Dave Dodge saved me from sleepless nights)

Eventually, I will come back and write a "full" description of installing this kit.  For now, however, I will just list the basic steps and insert pictures that were taken during this installation.  Every picture is available in two sizes.   Displayed on this page is a lower resolution (about 576 x 432 pixel) image. Clicking on each image will display a higher resolution picture (1152 x 864) of the same image.

This description is for my 1984 VF700C Magna.  While the steps would be similar for the other models and engines sizes, certain things would clearly be different.   For example, apparently the stock oil filter can be used on a V65 Magna after this mod, but the VF700C requires the smaller replacement.  Therefore, assume this description is for the VF700C only.

Do all work with the bike on the centerstand.

Step 1. Drain and remove the radiator.

The first step is to remove the radiator.  The instructions suggest this to aid in installation of the front head tap.  In reality, I can not imagine how the front tap could be accessed with the radiator in place without removing a carbs.  Between removing the carbs and removing the radiator, I'll choose the radiator.

First drain the radiator.  Remove the radiator cap and then open the drain plug.   The drain plug is on the left side on the lower frame as shown here.  .

Make sure you have a pan underneath to catch the coolant.  My plug came out without any problems, but check it for rusted tight before trying too hard.

After draining the coolant, remove the radiator.  The plastic shield is held on by four screws, remove these first.  The frame is held on by two bolts, one above and one below, on each side.  Removing the frame also removes the plastic front guard.

Left side of radiator with shield removed-i.jpg (41580 bytes)Finally use an allen wrench to free the radiator.  The red circle on this picture shows where this is attached.  Be careful of the rubber bushing between the frame and the radiator mount.  It is best to remove these now so they don't get lost.

At this point, the radiator is being held by the hoses only.  Remove the electrical connection that is visible below the red circle in the picture.  For the next step, get an assistant to help.  You want to make sure the radiator doesn't fall against anything as you remove the hoses.  With your assistant holding the radiator steady, the hoses (on each side) can be easily removed.  once the hoses are removed, pull the radiator slightly away from the bike and remove the connector to the fan.   The radiator is now free to be pulled out to the right side and removed.

Step 2. Remove the oil filter.

Original filter threaded bolt-i.jpg (53579 bytes)The oil filter can now be removed.  You will very likely need an oil filter wrench to get this off.   Have a pan under the filter when removing it since a certain amount of oil will come out.  Once the oil filter is removed, you will have to take out the existing threaded hollow bolt.  There is almost no way to remove this without destroying the threads, so don't try to hard to save it.  To remove mine, I wrapped the exposed threads tightly with electrical tape and then clamped down hard with a set of vise-grips.   Surprisingly, it came out without too much trouble.  Needless to say, at this point, with the filter and hollow bolt removed, be careful to keep dirt out of the chamber.

Step 3. Remove shield.

Shield behind radiator-i.jpg (34875 bytes)With the radiator removed, a metal shield is exposed.  This is held on by two screws, both of which were on very tightly.  I was able to remove one by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet on the screw driver as I turned, but the other would have stripped if I had tried the same approach.  Luckily, the screw heads are high enough that I was able to grasp it with the vise-grips.
 
 

 

 

Step 4. Remove existing oil lines.

Original stock feed from transmission-i.jpg (46660 bytes)Now it is time to remove the original stock oil lines.  This oil line starts at a tap on top of the transmission on the left side of the bike.  The line wraps around the rear cylinders and then forms a "T" between the heads.  A line from one side of the "T" goes up to enter a tap on the rear head and the other side of the "T" continues on to the right side of the bike.  On the right side, it goes up to the front head.  First remove the end from the tap on the transmission.   This is easily accessible and should present no problems.

Pulling hose out of the way-i.jpg (47964 bytes)Now comes the fun part, removing the existing oil lines as they enter the heads.  The instructions suggest that the rear tap is easily accessible, but the front tap is the problem.  I found just the opposite to be the case.  With the radiator and shield removed, the front tap is easily accessed from the front.  The rear tap, however, is harder to reach, stuck back between the head and the carburetor.  Perhaps by removing parts that are in the way, this could be made easier, but I didn't trust myself not to screw something up.  I therefore chose to leave everything in place.  The only concession I made to making things accessible was to pull back the blocking hose as I worked as shown here.

Original rear head tap-i.jpg (46387 bytes)First the rear tap.   The open end of a combination wrench was used to remove the existing banjo bolt.   Be careful of the sealing washers, there is one above and one blow the banjo head.   remove the bolt, but just leave the oil line in for now.

With the radiator removed, the front banjo bolt was easier to remove, a combination of a 1/4" ratchet and a combination wrench made short work of it.

With both banjo bolts removed, the old oil line can be removed.  This existing line will have to be cut to remove.  I used a a bolt cutter to cut the line and I made my cuts far enough from the banjo heads and the "T" so that if neccessary, I could reuse these lines (by adding hose).

Step 5. Install oil filter adapter.

The next step is to install the new hollow filter bolt and the adapter.  Make sure everything is clean before you start.  Insert the hollow bolt through the adapter and install it into block.  DON'T USE LOCTITE YET.  When you are sure that everything will correctly, remove the adapter, add LocTite, and reinstall.  Secure tightly, but don't over torque.

Step 6. Install new lines.

Existing banjo bolt-i.jpg (27023 bytes)The instructions tell you to add the new lines to the adapter before connecting to the head taps.  Instead, I found it was easier to connect to the heads first.  This allowed the lines to be routed neatly down the side of the engine and around to the adapter.  Use your existing banjo bolts.  From existing writeups, it would appear that some of the oil mod kits from Dave Dodge come with new bolts.  This was not the case with my kit.   Apparently some engines used a triangular shaft bolt that could block the oil lines.  My engine had square shaft bolts and these were reused.  The kit does come with new sealing washers and one is placed above and below the banjo head when they are installed.

The instructions specifiy that the banjo bolts should be torqued to 14.5 ft. lbs.   There was no way that I was going to get a torque wrench head into the confined space and so i simply used a combination wrench.  Care was taken to not over tighten these bolts and I did my "best guess" at 14.5 ft. lbs.

Filter adapter installed-i.jpg (162509 bytes)With the new lines installed, I routed them down the right side of the engine, through the frame bars, and to the adapter.  By twisting the lines slightly as they route around a corner, the lines can be made to lie neatly against the engine.  Once down by the adapter, they are secured as specified in the instructions.

New oil feed lines-i.jpg (60340 bytes)With the lines connected, the support bracket can be added to hold the lines tight and away from the engine block.   this picture also shows the new line connected to the front head tap.

A filter can now be installed.  As mentioned above, I had to repalce my stock filter with the smaller size (p/n 15410-MM9-013).  Unfortunately, I didn't notice this until after my local Honda shop had closed for the day.  As a temporary solution, I installed the corresponding Fram filter, but replaced this filter with the Honda filter as soon as the shop next opened.  For the small difference in price between the Fram filter and the true Honda filter, I don't think it is worth taking the chance.

This completes the installation.  The radiator now can be reinstalled, which is simply a reverse of removing it.  Again, an assistant should be used to hold the radiator as it is installed.  Remember to install the shield before installing the radiator.  I had the entire radiator installed and noticed that I had forgotten this shield only when cleaning up.

New coolant will need to be added and a small amount of oil to replace what was lost when removing the filter.

The installation is complete.  Go ride with the piece of mind that your cams are protected!